It's also sometimes called boron glass, because that's what it is, but any dealer understands stove glass. I prefer 5mm thickness but 4mm is cheaper and works ok too. Messages 11, Location CX near Chesterfield. Messages 5, Location south yorks. You can buy fire rope for a couple of quid a meter, I use 6mm and glue it in with stove glue if it needs it. As long as it has something to locate it though it's not strictly necessary, and as Pedrobedro says a couple of clips to hold the glass in place.
I use 5mm stainless screws with penny washers, just tight enough so its snug and doesn't rattle. Pyrex is not toughened. Or The last one I dropped wasn't.. Messages 16, Location East Yorkshire. Messages 4, Pyrex is just a trade name i believe? Origionally for borosilicate glass that has better thermal shock properties to 'regular' glass but AFAIK domestic kitchen stuff is more likely to be regular toughened glass these days as thermal shock is less of an issue for cooking food etc than it is with bunson burners and borosilicate toughened or not is easier to break than regular glass?.
From memory of school chemistry lessons test tubes etc used to shatter like float glass i. Messages 3, Location Buckinghamshire. If you have to buy a Pyrex dish, theres not much point. Be sure to protect your hands with a towel or heavy gloves. If you know anyone that does stained glass work, they will probably have a diamond bandsaw and can cut it for you. If you want to buy a diamond saw, google lapidary supply.
You can buy 6" diamond saw blades and use them on an arbor either like a table saw or on a bench grinder with a suitable fence. Thanks Guys Come to think of it, that is exactly how we did it in chemistry class. I am trying to make it like a hard plastic but it is really glass. Many years ago, I make some highball glasses from thick wine bottles. I remember cutting the glass with a glass cutter and polishing the edges with a torch.
Beyond that, I do not remember much about how I did it. I was in college and most likely drank the wine before I made the glasses; however, the wine I drank in college had a cap and not a cork. The bottles were also thin glass. I think I got the bottles for the glasses from a restaurant. These fixtures are make mostly from copper plumbing parts. I will try to post a pic tomorrow when I have some light.
Yall may have seen the news reports of the terrible beating of a young newscaster in Little Rock. That happened two blocks from my house.
Something like that is an incentive to fix your lights. I seem to think you use a wheel cutter like a pipe cutter to score it all around then snap it. Bill D. Landscaping lighting, with globes only 1. I'd probably chuck the tubing up in the lathe, with rubber sheet under the jaws. Then put a glass cutter or diamond point in the toolpost and scribe it all around. Don't go over the first scribe a second time. Then tap on the cut.
The old trick of wrapping a string soaked in gasoline around the glass and then setting it on fire, probably won't work with pyrex, given that it has lower thermal expansion coeficient than most other glasses. I don't think Pyrex will break with a score around it like the soft glass used in the things you have been doing in chemistry class. Better figure on "grinding" it off. It was the string and gas trick. I got the idea for some really neat glasses, made from hand blown bottles, my dad brought back from Italy after the war.
They are are around a sidewalk and patio. They only stick up about a foot and a half. I'm sure they can be found on ebay or somwhere. I may order This and see if it works. Powder keg said:.
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